With mythical rolling hills that seem to go on forever and an abundance of lush, tiny islands littering the spaces in between, Lake Bunyonyi offers some of the most unique vistas in Africa.You will find this picturesque piece of paradise right at the bottom of Uganda – some of the hills bordering the southern side of the lake actually belong to Rwanda.
Covering an area of 61sq/km its size is almost incomprehensible but as you drive and drive and drive along the rim, you start to get an idea of its magnitude.
Although relatively young – the lake was created by a volcanic eruption that blocked a river exit some 10,000 years ago – Bunyonyi is believed to be the second deepest lake in Africa going down as far as 900m.
Because of its high altitude, it sits at about 1950m in the shadow of Virunga volcanoes Muhavura (4127m) and Sabinyo (3634m), it’s slightly cooler than the rest of the country providing a welcome refuge in this equatorial country that never experiences winter.
Free from pesky bilharzia and strangely almost fish-free, the lake is safe for swimming.Although most people prefer to take to the water in a traditional dug out canoe.We hit the lake for a morning safari in a motorized boat.Our destination is Nyombe Swamp but first we pass some of Bunyonyi’s better known islands.Our guide explains that Akampene, or Punishment Island, is where the local people, the Bakiga, used to leave girls who got pregnant before marriage.
With absolutely nothing on the island except for reeds and a tree it was expected they would soon die of starvation or drown trying to make it back to the mainland.
Although we’re told poor, old men – who couldn’t afford the dowry to marry a more upstanding girl – often rescued the desperate women, especially if they were beautiful.Luckily the practice was abolished in the first half of the 20th century.
On to Sharp’s Island, named after Scottish missionary Dr Leonard Sharp who established a leprosy treatment centre on Bwama Island in the 1920s.At its peak the hospital treated 5000 patients from all over East Africa.The hospital buildings are now used as a secondary boarding school.Like the other residents of the area, the students get to and from the island in a boat.
Bushara Island could very well be nicknamed Australia with a thick forest of Eucalypts taking up almost the entire width and breadth. As well as the fast growing forest, the island is home to the Lake Bunyonyi Development Company, which, with its strong links to the Church of Uganda, uses tourism to generate funds for relevant projects in the area.
By far the best legend comes from Bucuranuka Island. It’s said that an old woman, mistaken for a beggar when she asked for a sip of local beer (made from sorghum), was taken away to the mainland and when she reached the shore the entire island turned upside down killing everyone.
The only survivor was a chicken which flew away. The journey to the bird-rich swamp at the end of the lake is a long and chilly one with a brisk breeze persisting until the sun hits its zenith. We pass rolling hills where villagers harvest sorghum, bananas and sweet potatoes. Flame trees add a splash of colour to the mostly brown and green landscape and the odd cormorant entertains us with its fishing antics. On certain days of the week it’s possible to catch the hustle and bustle of the local markets.
Local residents and Rwandese bargain for fresh produce on the shore before taking their groceries home in dugout canoes. We’re told it’s quite a spectacle. When we finally reach the swamp, after over an hour of traversing the giant lake, we find its well worth the trip. It’s a peaceful corner of the world where the lake really takes on its name – Bunyonyi means “place of many little birds’’.
The hunter-gatherers used to live in caves in the mountains until the `90s when Mgahinga Gorilla National Park was gazetted. We’re told they are looked down upon in society – and apparently, they don’t mind a drink – but all we see is a colourful celebration of their culture. From a dusty clearing overlooking the lake – prime real estate – a group of all ages from the Murambo village sing and dance for us. They perform a traditional dance to farewell a bride and raise dust as they stomp out an anthem about building Uganda. it’s easy to see why this picturesque lake with its unique landscape has become a must-stop on the western Ugandan tourist circuit.
Where to stay: Bunyonyi Safaris Resort
Relax in a quaint cottage lakeside or be one of the first guests to bed down at the site’s newly-constructed hotel.
Boat trips and cultural visits are available from several lodges.
